Archive for the ‘HERITAGE’ Category

Padamshri Surjit Pattar pens lyrics of “Attari Junction” documentary/ GREATER JAMMU/ Rashmi Talwar


Padamshri Surjit Pattar pens lyrics of “Attari Junction” documentary

Indo-Pak Last Rail Connect

Padamshri Surjit Pattar pens lyrics of “Attari Junction” documentary

Documentary to release in August to mark 76 years of Independence

Rashmi Talwar Attari – (Amritsar) 13th June 2023…..

Famed Punjabi Poet Padmashri Awardee  Dr. Surjit Pattar penned the lyrics of the upcoming documentary film “Attari Junction” based on India’s last rail connecting Attari with Pakistan on the Lahore side. Meantime it is seen over the years that a mammoth crowd of over 20,000 People visit the Wagah-Attari Border on the Indian side on average, daily, to watch the Beating Retreat Ceremony of the lowering of the flags; but, none visits Attari Railway Station, a 161-year old Heritage rich building and space that witnessed the Best and the Worst of human emotions, especially during partition and for decades later. Now it stands lonely, stupefied, and mute to the animosity between the economically disparate neighbours.

As the shooting began today, it came as no surprise -how both warring countries sitting side by side, simultaneously witnessed a common sunset. The manmade lines drawn did not dim the musical winds or the birds from crisscrossing, the melodies and drumbeats on both sides had an unhindered passage and audience beyond partitions. But the people of both countries are locked-in and are made to conjure up images of demonic forces across borders, by respective powers on both sides and the stakeholders in the continuation of this animosity.

Punjab’s eminent Author, heritage promoter, nature artist, and Director of the film- Harpreet Sandhu while talking to Greater Jammu said – “This short film will portray historical rich architecture of this 161-year old Attari Railway Station, which is a blend of Indo-Islamic and Victorian architectural styles. Its arches and ornate facades showcase an aura of grandeur and elegance of the architecture of the bygone era. Given the eyeball catcher- the Wagah Attari Retreat ceremony, this vital heritage of Railtrack has seldom been highlighted.  The Documentary film under the patronage of Sewa Sankalp Society has been scripted by Atul Tirkey, IRS Deputy Commissioner Customs, Attari. No one could do more justice to the film’s lyrics than the Internationally renowned Punjabi Poet Dr. Surjit Pattar. The film whose shooting will be wound up in three days at Attari will be released to mark the 76th year of Indo-Pak Partition”, he added.

Shooting the film “Attari Junction” –began with the clapboard Mahurat shot by MP Amritsar Gurjeet Aujla, and Deputy Commissioner Amritsar Amit Talwar, in the presence of a battery of IRS, IPS, and IAS officers.

The director further revealed  –“The film in trilingual languages are juxtaposed just as during those times. It will have the Deputy Commissioner Customs Atul Tirkey, as an actor speaking English, and I, Harpreet Sandhu, as Director, also a former Additional Advocate General, Punjab and Chairman of Punjab Infotech, would try to do justice to the film in Punjabi while retired Chief Commissioner Income Tax and Author Parneet Sachdev would be using Hindi.”

Is the purpose to only highlight heritage, even as all top officers are involved in this documentary? I asked –“We never wanted to it have a flimsy and commercial touch by bringing in famed Punjabi actors like Daljit Dosanjh. We have done a detailed script for nearly 8-months on how many kilometers was the stretch and at which times it was discontinued between the countries, the history behind it. Besides this, we looked into the outcome of this railway junction on the measurement of tourism, culture, trade exchange, and several other aspects. So I personally will not use the word that it’s a ‘big documentary’ but it is surely meaningful, compact and being made to solely highlight this 161-year old heritage of rail junction. My purpose and what I hope to achieve, is to spread awareness, about this last railway station that has witnessed the worst of Partition days. We all are putting in full effort. We have done extensive shooting of key actors playing commoners and have canned a fabulous train shot with a train arriving from Qadian to Attari. We also went up until the last gate and shot there as it was locked .” What did you do about the horses that used to gallop alongside the train on the Indian side?  No, we haven’t looked into that.  The necessary permissions for shooting the Documentary film have been obtained from various government agencies including the Northern Railway, New Delhi and Land Customs Attari, and the BSF authorities.

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BOX

 Writer’s Journey in the Samjhauta Express

In the year 2007, a land passage through the road route between India and Pakistan was denied to the Hindu Jatha to Pakistan on the occasion of the Maha-Shivratri annual celebration at Katasraj shrines in Pakistan. The Hindu and Sikh Jathas as well as Muslim Jathas to Ajmer Shrief came under the Indo-Pak Agreement of Pilgrimage to visit shrines in each other’s countries.

It was a time when a popular Pakistani actress had flouted the rules of specific city-based visas to visit Agra without a visa for the city of the Taj Mahal and was apprehended by Indian authorities. This took a toll on Pakistan over the Indian reprimand to the Pak embassy. A petulant Pakistan thus resorted to tit-for-tat retaliation denying the easy land-crossing to Indian Hindu Jatha, to divert it to the cumbersome rail journey on the rail Samjhauta Express.

Samjhauta Express was started in 1976 as a bi-weekly and was a symbol of a ‘train of emotions’ to help bridge the gap for the separated families of both countries.

So we arrived at the Attari Railway station at 8 o clock for the train of emotions, after much emotional trauma of being diverted at the last minute from the Wagah road route to the Attari rail route. The train arrived hours late. In the meantime, we explored the heritage rail station and absorbed the mechanism, of how the trains operated through an exhaustive hotline system of giving or holding back clearance to the train as per the whims and fancies of authorities of both countries. This time the special treatment of delayed clearance was reserved for the Hindu jatha. The old system of Red and Green flags to indicate stop and go were used. The bogeys were all 3rd class and non-AC 3-tiers with iron bars on windows just like the ones before the partition of 1947.  Finally, after an exhaustive procedure of processing hundreds of cross-country travellers and loading baggage, most of us found ourselves sitting on sacks of luggage as the loaded train finally and painfully groaned out of the Attari station.     

Although overjoyed at its finally starting to move, the train journey conjured up images of the year 1947 bloodied trains during partition which reached Amritsar and Lahore with dripping blood of cut-up bodies. My attention was diverted soon as I watched horse-mounted BSF personnel galloping alongside the train on the Indian side up until the gates opened up to no man’s land, and I caught the scenes in my portable Sony camera.

The train went into a deep sleep after every 15 minutes, as if its old bones felt tired under its heavy weight. In an interview with BBC, I told the channel how a distance of 3Kms stretch between the two countries took 12 hours to cross! This fact was highlighted as the catchword in every other channel.

Just a few days later in the early hours of midnight on 19th February 2007, a bomb blast took place in the Samjhauta Express at Chandni Bagh in Panipat Haryana India, in which 68 people were killed mostly Pakistanis. We, as the Hindu jatha of 175 people were still in Lahore after visiting Katasraj shrines in Pakistan.  I had got a little ‘Palm Plant’  packed in Lahore, as a take-back memory home to Amritsar -an emotional keepsake of the soil of Pakistan and Lahore that once was the soil of the land of my paternal grandmother and my Multan-based grandfather.

However, we were rushed before the schedule to return to India due to security issues following the Samjhauta Blast.  But I wouldn’t leave without my green plant. So while sitting on sacks again on the return, my little greenie also sat with me. My husband who waited for me at Attari railway station for nearly 4-hours before arriving at Attari was pointed out by a fellow also waiting for his mother arriving from Lahore that “People have picked up trees from Pakistan to bring to India!” My husband gaily pointed out that the person who could bring a tree from anywhere could only be Rashmi Talwar, his wife.

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Magnificent 180-year old Panj Mandir screams for help/ Rashmi Talwar / The Tribune SPECTRUM


Magnificent 180-year-old Panj Mandir screams for help
Rashmi Talwar

Panj Mandir in Fatehgarh Churian, Gurdaspur, is a jewel of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s reign. It is the maternal hometown of Rani Chand Kaur, wife of Kharak Singh, son of the Maharaja

Straddling streets of New York, seeing the ancient melt so smoothly; antiquated churches virtually like “flowers” amidst sky-scrapers, I was gripped by shame. The scene reminded me of our callousness towards our rich heritage in India. Where graffiti defaces marvellous frescoes, a crude nail has gouged out an eye; a paan-spit splashed red blob is the depths of apathy towards our glorious past.

Glorious Panj Mandir

Glorious Panj Mandir

If the enthralling grandeur of Amritsar’s GoldenTemple is credited to Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Panj Mandir is another marvellous jewel, ingloriously unrecognised of the Maharaja’s reign. It is some 30 km from the GoldenTemple, in Fatehgarh Churian Gurdaspur, the maternal hometown of Rani Chand Kaur, wife of Kharak Singh, son of the Maharaja.

Attributed to Rani Chand Kaur, the Panj Mandir’s structure below the dome is a unique zigzag, created by precision laying of specially made bricks, inspired by Solanki architecture and Baoli art of step-creation. Indo-Mughal, Sikh architectural confluences have amalgamated in this marvellous structure with four mandirs marking four directions and a sanctum sanctorum.

The inner and outer fort-like walls and the temple entrances are studded with jharokhas in bas relief, reminiscent of Rajasthani architecture. Remarkable, rare frescoes tell stories of yore in exquisitely carved niches, so resilient as to stand bright till today. “I am too scared to step on the brick flooring as I feel my shoes may erase some traces of rich heritage”, an American’s remark disgraced me once.

Our magnificent heritage could not only be made self-sustaining but its optimum utiliSation could accrue prosperity and income. “Tourism is created with ideas and here we sit on a virtual mountain of treasure and let it be robbed or crumble,” laments an expert.

Beautiful artwork

Heritage experts believe the temple may have been built around 1830 and is thus nearly 180 years old. Much of the lower portions of frescoes is white-washed, and the present caretaker Pt. Mohinder Kumar, who religiously cleans and secures it from encroachment, may beautify it with bathroom tiles and multicolours, out of sheer ignorance. The temple’s foundations are already being dug for new housing, emerging adjacent to it.

The wealth of resplendent frescoes comprises episodes of Krishan stealing bathing gopis clothes, Yashoda Maiyya churning butter with a madhani. Frescoes also show Guru Nanak with disciples Bhai Mardana and Bala, Brahma-Vishnu-Mahesh, Saraswati-Lakshmi, Radha-Krishan, Shiv-Parvati-Ganesh, Kartikeya-on-Peacock, Ganga emerging from Shiva’s locks. Vishnu reclining, with Nag-chatri in ocean, Durga Mata aloft a lion, valiant horse-rider, episodes of Narsingh, Prahlad, Baba Balaknath, Hiranyakashyap. These splendid frescoes-artifacts are facing erosion, their ruination imminent, if timely protection evades them.

Tertiary temples are devoted to Surya, Durga, Shiva and Kartikeya. Inside the sanctum sanctorum, Lord Ram with Sita, Lakshman, Bharat and Shatrughan share space with Krishna-Radha.

This combination of gods goddesses on one pedestal is rare. Dr Subhash Parihar, an expert on historical structures, comments, “People were secular, many ancient gurdwaras-temples have frescoes displaying episodes of Hindu gods-goddesses.”

The frescoes resemble Chamba’s famed Rang Mahal paintings in Pahari style, ones in Sheesh Mahal near Ramnagar, Jammu, also seen in Dera Sahib Gurdwara, Lahore and temples around Katasraj in Pakistan.

The Baradari entrance with symmetrical twin Jharokas on both sides of angular walls open to the road, are in ruins. The rampart walls are embellished with exquisite Jharokas, geometrical patterns, flowers waves, carved canopies in bas relief complete with exquisite corbels. But the outer wall is wearing, as entire area is speedily coming up with housing.

Dr Balvinder Singh HoD Guru Ram Das School of Planning in GNDUniversity, comments: “The mandir resembles Konarkin Orissa and South Indian temples. The use of Nanakshahi bricks makes it unique.”

Mandirs are conjoined by a fort-wall with steps and walk-ways throughout the terrace, are peeling. One is covered with green climber and a syntax-watertank supplying water to a tiled bathroom constructed inside the ancient complex. Locals wait for a collapse, to grab the land. There were seven mandirs, two of which were outside the main complex, of which one exists in a dilapidated condition, locked and other, erased.

Panch-mukhi lingam

A rare five-headed or Panch-mukhi lingam in the temple represents five elements, five senses, five organs, five powers and the five temples of Panj Mandir. The five heads also signify the five aspects of Shiva corresponding to five holy places in Hinduism.

Ancient sarovar

About 120 yards from Panj Mandir stands a massive sarovar alongside Talab Wala mandir, believed to be built by Rani Chand Kaur to mark the birth or dastargiri of her son Kunwar Naunihal Singh. Some say, Nanakshahi bricks used for the mandir and sarovar were brought from Lahore via a human-chain. Almost 15 feet in depth, with 10 running steps throughout, the sarovar, 225 feet by 230 feet, has arched exit-entry water-points, and lies neglected.

FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE TRIBUNE ON AUGUST 25TH 2013 

URL:http://www.tribuneindia.com/2013/20130825/spectrum/society.htm